On our way back to Zimbabwe on January 7 we flew Egypt Air through Cairo . Rather than hunker
down for our 13-hour layover in the Cairo
Airport , we decided to
venture outside the airport to pay King Tut a visit. Little did we know, there
was rioting in the capital on the same day, but our cab skirted the downtown
area and headed for the old city of Giza .
I think the Egyptians have been starved for tourists since their revolution a
year ago, and continued unrest hasn’t improved the industry. As a result, we were
sitting
ducks and the prices we were quoted shifted constantly in the upward direction.
What began as a simple cab ride to a quick walk around the pyramids turned into
hiring a camel and horse to trek over the dunes and past the sphinx. Ale and I
were ready to head back to the airport without seeing anything after a marathon
negotiation/bartering session in the back room of an incense-filled shop.
Finally we reached terms with our host Mohammed and our guide Kareem, and
emerged from the war room slightly beleaguered but anticipating our first
encounter with the iconic humped mammal.
Turns out camels are ugly.
And smelly. In Giza
they had camel parking lots, where camels were tied up in rows like horses in
the wild west. I braved the camel first, and it protested noisily as our
12-year-old camel master forced it to its knees so I could clamber aboard. The
camel-kneeling process seemed to take forever as the beast folded its gangly
legs under it like an ironing board collapsing, and creakily and complainingly
touched down on the hard-packed earth. Now I gripped the tattered knit blankets
that formed a saddle, snatched the reins, and vaulted aboard, holding on for
dear life as the ironing board unfolded lurchingly for what seemed like forever and my
perch just kept getting higher. Soon my knees were above Ale’s head where he
sat atop a dun mare next to me. Camels are really tall. Our camel, Michael
Jackson, and many of the camels we passed, had tattoos etched into the hide on their neck to identify them. Many were also adorned with ear piercings, and all were
draped with colorful blankets/saddles and masticated the same neon-green,
pungent cud which they coughed up noisily at intervals.
I think Kareem took us the back
way into the pyramids because we had a little tour of the city of Giza,
down alleyways and past trash heaps where old women sifted with sticks for
useful items. I felt like a real chump because we’re such known commodities in Bulawayo now that I no
longer feel like a tourist. But trust me, nothing will make you feel more like
a tourist than being a blond-haired American swaying regally down an Egyptian
causeway nine feet above the crowds. Meanwhile, our guides kept telling Ale how Egyptian he looks. Odd man out. Finally we reached a gate that let us into the vast area
of dunes surrounding the pyramids, Sphinx, and tombs. Whatever package we had
negotiated for through clouds of incense included a look at the three large
pyramids, one tomb, and the Sphinx. We snapped pictures in front of the
pyramids, spelunked into a pretty cool tomb, and sauntered past the Sphinx.
I’ll let the pictures do the talking. The chance to see the pyramids and the
significant workout I got from gripping the camel with my legs on sandy 30
degree inclines made the detour from sterile airport life well worth it.
However, the addendum to pyramid viewing which included a look into a “free art museum” which was actually a friend’s papyrus art shop, convinced me that I will not be returning to
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